The Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido (Hoeido edition) ・ 26
Sayo-no-Nakayama Mountain near Nissaka
東海道五拾三次之内 日坂 佐夜ノ中山
This print shows Sayo no Nakayama, a steep slope drawn as if rushing up toward the sky, with travelers gathered around Yonaki-ishi, a large round stone in the middle of the road. The angle of the diagonally cut slope conveys the harshness of the pass.
- Artist
- Utagawa Hiroshige
- Date
- c. 1833-34 (Tenpo 4-5)
- Medium / format
- Woodblock print (ukiyo-e)
- Series
- The Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido (Hoeido edition) 55 prints
- Place depicted
- Nissaka-juku(Shizuoka)
About this work
The slope on the right rises at an angle close to vertical. At the top of the slope, porters carrying a palanquin and travelers are seen small, emphasizing the difference in height from front to back. At the back left, blue and red mountains overlap, suggesting the depth of the valley.
The round stone in the middle of the road at the foot of the slope is Yonaki-ishi. According to legend, the spirit of a pregnant woman killed by bandits dwelt in the stone, and her crying was heard every night. It is said that the child she bore was raised on candy, which became the origin of the local specialty Kosodate Ame. The travelers gather around the stone and gaze at it.
Sayo no Nakayama is also known as an utamakura through the poem by Saigyo that begins, Did I think I would cross again, now that I am old? It is life itself, Sayo no Nakayama. It is a pass between Kanaya and Nissaka and was one of the hard places on the Tokaido.
Nissaka-juku is the post station at the western foot of Sayo no Nakayama, where travelers who had crossed the pass rested. The specialty Kosodate Ame is a mizuame made from glutinous rice and barley. Hiroshige fits the steepness of the slope and the legend of Yonaki-ishi in a single picture, conveying both the difficulty of the pass and the story of the place.
The place today
At Sayo no Nakayama, roads and a park have been developed, and you can walk the pass road and tour the historic sites. Yonaki-ishi is set beside the Nakayama Tunnel, and a stone is also enshrined at Kyuenji Temple. There is a monument to Saigyo's poem at the park pond, and Kosodate Ame is still made by the traditional method. In Nissaka-juku, the inn Kawasakaya remains.
Where can I see it?
Exhibitions change over time. Check each museum's exhibition information before you visit.
Museums that hold this work
- Tokyo National MuseumMuseum's page for this work (opens in a new tab)
Taito City, Tokyo Accession no. A-12499-30
Museums that hold this series (please check the museum's website for whether it holds this print)
- Shizuoka City Tokaido Hiroshige Museum of Art
Shimizu Ward, Shizuoka
All prints of the Hoeido edition were shown in the museum's collection exhibition Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido (2024-25)
Museums abroad
- Art Institute of ChicagoMuseum's page for this work (opens in a new tab)
Chicago Accession no. 1925.3528
Frequently asked questions
- Who painted The Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido: Sayo-no-Nakayama Mountain near Nissaka, and when?
- The Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido: Sayo-no-Nakayama Mountain near Nissaka is by Utagawa Hiroshige, made in c. 1833-34 (Tenpo 4-5). Medium: Woodblock print (ukiyo-e).
- What place does The Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido: Sayo-no-Nakayama Mountain near Nissaka show?
- It shows Nissaka-juku (Shizuoka).
- Where can I see The Fifty-three Stations of the Tokaido: Sayo-no-Nakayama Mountain near Nissaka?
- It is held by Tokyo National Museum, Tokyo Fuji Art Museum, National Diet Library. Exhibitions change, so check each museum's information before you visit.
Sources and references
- Art Institute of Chicago: Nissaka: Sayo Mountain Pass (Nissaka, Sayo no nakayama) (opens in a new tab) (checked 2026-10-18)
- ColBase(東京国立博物館): A-12499-30 (opens in a new tab) (checked 2026-10-18)
- 東京富士美術館 収蔵品: 東海道五拾三次之内 日坂 佐夜ノ中山 (opens in a new tab) (checked 2026-10-18)
- 国立国会図書館デジタルコレクション: 東海道五拾三次 日坂・佐夜ノ中山 (opens in a new tab) (checked 2026-10-18)
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